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Whether your car is electric, internal combustion, or remote-controlled, it will have a battery. Here we focus on internal combustion and what you need to know before making a purchase.
There are two types of batteries: lead-acid and absorbed glass mat (AGM). Lead-acid batteries are an older technology—you don’t have to refill them with distilled water anymore—while AGMs are modern and fit in vehicles with more advanced electrical systems. You can swap an AGM battery into a car that came with lead-acid, but not vice versa.
Lead-acid batteries cost less, but they won’t hold a charge as long as an AGM. According to Consumer Reports, AGM batteries are 40 to 100 percent more expensive than lead-acid ones but can tolerate discharging better. (Those are best if your vehicle sits for longer periods of time.) They’re also better for cars with high-powered stereo setups or other extra electrical demands.
Both types come in a variety of sizes; terminal locations vary from top to side. Some batteries have both. Make sure your size matches up to the vehicle battery you’re replacing, no matter the type. The Family Handyman says the average life span of a battery is four to six years.
The two main stats to look for, according to AutoGuide, are cold cranking amps and reserve power. CCA measures how well a battery can start in cold weather—more important for buyers in northern states—while reserve capacity is how long a battery can run if your charging system fails. You should also see cranking amps advertised on your battery label. The difference between cranking amps and cold cranking amps is that cranking amps are measured at 32 degrees Fahrenheit and cold cranking amps are measured at zero degrees Fahrenheit.
This list is culled from the best-ranking batteries from the sources above; we expect you’ll find something for everyone. Just make sure to check your sizes and requirements.
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